
Danica Dun
Tying Guide: How to tie Michael Olesen’s Danica Dun Hook: Maruto d21 size 10 Thread: Classic Waxed 12/0 from Semperfli, primrose for the abdomen and
To make a straight forward simple fly with only natural material
Pay attention to the little details and take your time
High resolution pictures and easy to understand guide
This fly contains a combination of well-known techniques and material choices and it is even quite easy to tie. I think that this Vulgate is, in a way, one of my most simple flies, it is so simple and straightforward that words and explanations are almost not needed.
The fly consists exclusively of natural boyant materials. The deer hairs and the airy structure around them in the thorax area contribute to a great extent to this fly’s unique buoyancy. There is plenty of opportunity to develop your skills as a hairdresser, as the deer hair can be cut, bent and structured exactly as you wish, according to your own taste. Personally, I prefer to cut the hairs shortest at the hook eye and gradually a little longer across the thorax, towards the wing.
Many insects can of course be imitated with this material combination, but I think the fly is better and more natural looking in big sizes for the Vulgata and Danica fishing.
Briefly about “The Feather Mechanic II: Beyond the Pattern”
A look into the feature of the Luna Mayfly in Gordon van der Spuy’s new book. What Michael’s thoughts were going into this, and places on the web where the book can be bought will also be mentioned here.
See more from Gordon van der Spuy on his socials and website.
You can find a copy of “The Feather Mechanic II: Beyond the Pattern” on www.themissionflymag.com
Explore original work by Michael Olesen and learn ways to make them with easy step by step guides and simple illustrations. Explore a variety of flies and a deep passion for fly tying.
This fly contains a combination of well-known techniques and material choices and it is even quite easy to tie. I think that this Vulgate is, in a way, one of my most simple flies, it is so simple and straightforward that words and explanations are almost not needed.
The fly consists exclusively of natural boyant materials. The deer hairs and the airy structure around them in the thorax area contribute to a great extent to this fly’s unique buoyancy. There is plenty of opportunity to develop your skills as a hairdresser, as the deer hair can be cut, bent and structured exactly as you wish, according to your own taste. Personally, I prefer to cut the hairs shortest at the hook eye and gradually a little longer across the thorax, towards the wing.
Many insects can of course be imitated with this material combination, but I think the fly is better and more natural looking in big sizes for the Vulgata and Danica fishing.
Cover the hook shank with your tying thread. Tweak out 3 individual hairs from a moose`s mane for tails, even up the tips and tie these in as a bundle, right at the hook bend. The total length of the tails should be 2 – 2,5 cm. To splay the tails, you can push your thumb nail into the base of the tails and then take your tying thread once between the outer tails and the central one (figure of 8).
Add a little dubbing to the bare hook shank behind the hook eye, to make a little base for tying down the wings. Select two grey rather straight big cdc feathers. Tie the two cdc feathers down, with the backsides against each other, in the point 3 – 4 mm from the hook eye, against the bump on the edge of the dubbing. This way you can make your wings sit nicely at an angle of 45 degrees to the hook shank/abdomen. Now you cover the thorax area with tying thread, to make an even base for the next tying step.
Now wind the rope of deer hair around the shank in tight touching turns, in the thorax area in front of the wing. To make sure I don’t trap too many deer hair, I pull them backwards for every turn I make. I make a whip finish behind the hook eye and cut off the tying thread before the last step.
Cut the deer hair to the desired length. There is no accurate formula for this, but what I do is, I cut the over- and underside rather short. I leave some deer hair to blend into the wings and some on the sides for legs. To make the legs extra buggy, I grab the tips of the deer hair and push them against the fly. This way I force them to bend and the fly get a little messy.
Latest in the fly tying world according to Michael Olesen
Tying Guide: How to tie Michael Olesen’s Danica Dun Hook: Maruto d21 size 10 Thread: Classic Waxed 12/0 from Semperfli, primrose for the abdomen and
Michael Olesen’s September Sedge-fun On the road, heading towards Jutland, the stream is already on my mind. Is there shelter behind the trees? Should I
Michael Olesen’s Postcard from Danica Land The mayfly fishing is always worth the wait, but this year the wait wasn’t so long. The iconic insect
EOS European Outdoor Show in Verona EOS Verona 2024 Photos by Lorenzo Mangini & Margrethe Olesen Italians have it all; the best cuisine in the
Tying Guide: How to tie Michael Olesen’s Foam Foil Sedge Hook: Maruto d21 size 10 or 8 Thread: Semperfli Waxed 12/0 Rust Body/abdomen: Rust-colored Kapok
Fly Fishing and Insect Exploration Yellow May, A Simple Way The little stream is gurgling, calmly and elevating at the same time, right next to
Don’t miss any articles or news. Get the latest updates via email. Don’t miss out, you might end getting hooked.
Any time you may unsubscribe. (Not active)